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Physics of a surfer



When a surfer is waiting to go, there are 2 forces that affect the surfer. For example, there is gravity which pulls the surfer down and normal force going up. If you were to find the net force it would be equal to 0. When surfing, it is important to maintain balance. When the 2 forces are in line and add to 0, then the surfer is stable. However if one slides backwards on the board, the downward force of gravity moves behind the normal force. Also when the wave approaches the beach, it is a transverse wave. This means that it is perpendicular to the direction of wave travel.


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