physics surfing

Okay, so in the quest for knowledge of physics i have come up with the worst sport of all time, physics surfing, clicking on physics in stumbleupon and trying to reach the end, gathering as much info as possible. This will never catch on though. So i decided to make a post about the physics OF surfing instead

the Physics of surfing is actually kind of cool, relying on fluid resistance (much like that of air resistance) going upward in the circular motion of the wave (or arc motion of the wave) until the surfer's gravitational force matches that of the Frictional force of the water.

The speed of the surfer depends on both the speed of the wave and the angle of the surfboard, because as the surfboard angles there is less surface area, and thus less friction between the board and the water, causing the surfer to either speed up, or in worst case scenario, break the surface of the water, or catch the wrong current and wipe out.

This is similarly experienced in wake-boarding, para-sailing, and windsurfing, although the upward force to match that of the water, along with the lateral force (supplied by that of the water in surfing) are supplied by different sources leading to a similar effect. i dont know why, but with the variety of land sports and the physics of each, i would think that not all water-board sports would be the same. but from a physics perspective at the surface, they are all EXTREMELY similar.